Paakam: TIPS FOR A HOME MADE KERALA SADYA

Kerala sadya menu undergoes change in number of items and taste as we go from Trivandrum to Kasaragod. Even the common items like sambar and aviyal are prepared differently in different parts of our state. (Only recently I learned that in Kannur they add raw banana slices in olan.) The sadya we get from hotels and the numerous catering companies is actually a combination of items served in different parts of Kerala

When I started making sadya on my own, only a limited number of items were served. I made sambar with ready made powder and my avial was nowhere near the avial I make today . As is the practice in Central Travancore I added onion in avial and garlic in parippu curry. (still my favorite is the typical Kottayam Aviyal - with onion and curry leaves crushed and added to the "arappu")

Every year I add new items to the menu , getting recipes from friends and collegues who hail from different parts of Kerala. The latest item is "boli", (a South Kerala speciality) the recipe of which was given by my friend Loli.

What I know about a Kerala sadya is

1. There are 4 types of pickles served in a sadya. They are (1) Manga curry,(2) Naranga achar (3) vadukappuli naranga curry and (4) inchi curry.

2. 4 types of payasams ( milk based and coconut based)

3. 4 types of fries - they are ethakka upperi, sharkkara puratti, chembu upperi and chena upperi

4. Valiya pappadam and cheriya pappadam

5. Pazham and pazham nurukku

6. Parippu, sambar, rasam and moru (butter milk ) which are served with rice at different stages

7. Curd based curries like kalan, pachadi, kichadi, madhura pachadi and inchi thayiru.

8. Other curries like aviyal, olan, erisseri, koottu curry, stew and thoran

9. Boli

Since sadya is prepared on auspicious days like Onam, vishu, birthdays etc , onion and garlic are not added in any of the curries

There is a special sadya called "Aranmula valla sadya" associated with Sree Partha Sarathi temple in Aranmula, Pathanamthitta. This sadya is a "vazhipadu" (offering) and consists of a lot more items than an ordinary sadya (the numbr may go upto 64) like ellunda, unni appam, pachoru, aravana payasam, cheera thoran, thakara thoran, munthiri achar etc. It is my dream to make that sadya at home one day.

It is not that difficult to prepare a sadya at home. If you are ready to spend 2-3 hours on the previous day , sadya will be ready in 4-6 hours.

HOW TO MAKE A SADYA

1. The first step is writing down the menu, leaving some space below each item. Now note down the ingredients and the quantity required .

2. Prepare a list of items to be purchased. This should include all the ingredients required as per the recipe. The quantity will depend on the number of people at home plus guests.

3.There are a number of jobs which can be done on the previous day. They are

(1) Grating coconuts: Select fresh coconuts. Nowadays grated coconut is available in all super markets and buying that will reduce 1 major task. Otherwise grate 4-5 coconuts in advance and store in the freezer in plastic containers or zip lock bags. Remember to keep 1 whole coconut also. We need chopped coconut for inchi curry and jaggery based payasams.

(2) Fenugreek powder is needed for kalan and inchi curry. Fry 1/4 cup fenugreek in coconut oil , drain on paper towel and grind well. Store this in a dry container.

(3) Chukku-jeerakam-elakka podi (Dry ginger- cumin seeds- cadamom powder) is added in all jaggery based payasams. Take all three in equal amounts and grind well. Store in a dry container.

(4) Make jaggery syrup

(5) Make fresh ghee

(6)Make the four pickles, fries and boli.

(7) Make curd

(8) Wash enough curry leaves and green chillis and drain on paper towel. Keep them in zip lock bags lined with paper towels
.

(9) Fry moong dal (for parippu curry and parippu prathaman) in ghee and keep in a dry container.

(10) Wash the banana leaves well and wipe with a clean cloth. Roll and cover with cling film.

(11) Clean and keep all the cooking vessels,spoons,lids and serving bowls ready for next day

(12) Finally keep the dress you are going wear next day ready with all the accessories. You might not get time for last minute searching and ironing.

It would be nice if you can plan some simple breakfast too.

The main cooking is done on the same day of sadya. Of course you can make some items beforehand and refrigerate, but the taste is best when they are fresh.

Get up early and take bath before entering the kitchen. This is done not only for religious reasons but to get energy and freshness as well for the task ahead.

(Prepare break fast and keep it ready on the table so that you wont be disturbed. Dont forget to have breakfast. You need a lot of energy.)

Paste a copy of the menu on the kitchen wall. Srike each item when it is finished.

Tidy up the kitchen so that you can move around freely.

Keep a table ready in the dining area. Once an item is made keep it on this table. This is to avoid crowding of the kitchen platform.

Making rice takes time. So it would be safe if you make rice first. I have heard stories of friends who forgot to make rice after making all the other items.

Most curries on the Kerala sadya menu have coconut as an ingredient. Curries like parippu curry, kalan, pachadi , kichadi and erisseri need a fine paste of coconut with cumin seeds. So it is better to do the grinding together. Turmeric, chilli powder etc can be added later.

Vegetables like elephant yam are needed for different curries The cleaning and cutting for these curries can be done simultaneously.

Once you start making curries it is like a chain reaction. Make payasams in between
.

Making pazham nurukku, inchi thayiru, sambharam/moru and frying pappadam can be done after finishing all other items.

Check the menu and see if you have skipped anything.

Finally make some jeeraka vellam or karingali vellam.

Guess I have covered all the details. If my any of my readers have any suggestions I am happy to incorporate them as well.

I have posted recipes of some of the sadya items here.

1. Ghee ( Neyyu)

2. Parippu

3. Sambar

4. Tomato (thakkaali) rasam

5. Jeera Rasam